Our journey to Biche to attend Stoveman’s funeral

December 25, 2020

This article is a personal account and first-person narrative detailing a journey to Biche, Trinidad, to attend the funeral of a friend known as Stoveman. Navigating the rural landscape of Canque Village provides a unique perspective on the geographical and social fabric of East Trinidad.

The story captures the transition from the bustling hub of Sangre Grande to the serene, untouched forested areas that define the route to this secluded community. Readers are introduced to the local history of Biche, including its agricultural roots and the notorious legacy of Mano Benjamin, contrasted against the deeply spiritual and close-knit nature of the modern village.

This narrative provides an authentic look at Trinbagonian funeral traditions and the importance of community support during times of grief. It serves as a cultural archive for those interested in the lesser-visited regions of the island and the lived experiences of its citizens.

Key Takeaways

The journey to Biche involves navigating rural routes through Sangre Grande and lush forested areas.
Biche is characterised by a close-knit community with strong spiritual values across various faiths.
Local history includes the agricultural significance of Canque Village and the legacy of Mano Benjamin.
Trinbagonian funeral traditions in rural areas emphasise communal celebration through singing, dancing, and walking processions.
The narrative highlights the accessibility of Biche via public transportation and the hospitality of its residents.

Community, faith, and farewell: A first-person narrative of a Biche funeral

By Kerry Mc Donald. Many people are familiar with popular places in Trinidad, such as Port-of-Spain, Arima and San Fernando, to name a few, but what about Biche? I distinctly remembered when I mentioned Biche to my cousin, Kemisha, she looked at me in amazement. Her response: “The only Biche I know about is the one where you go to bathe in the sea. I know about that beach.”

For persons who may have visited Biche, I received the opportunity to visit this part of Trinidad to attend my friend, Mervyn aka Stoveman’s funeral.

As I embarked the maxi for Biche that day I was brimming with excitement. We wondered which would be the easiest route to Biche. There were two options via Tabaquite or Sangre Grande, so the latter option was chosen. Upon reaching Sangre Grande, everything came to a standstill, as we were not sure how best to proceed.

As fate would have it that day, we met a young lady by the name of Gloria who was awaiting transportation to Biche. Luckily, she knew Stoveman. Gloria was our map that day for approximately 90 minutes as we journeyed to Biche, Canque Village. Like a kid in a candy store, I was happy when I got the chance to sit next to Gloria in the maxi. She had my undivided attention as we had intermittent conversations about this highly anticipated village.

Sangre Grande, Plum Mitan, untouched forested areas, rich vegetation and more. I saw the full works. What captured my attention though were the forested areas, which appeared to be untouched – so clean, vivid, and inviting, like a cosy area of your home, warm and inviting to relax after a hard day’s work.

Upon arriving in Biche

Upon arriving in Biche, we met with Stoveman’s family who provided us with the rich history of the village. A usually agricultural area, this is where the infamous Mano Benjamin lived. He had enslaved and tortured two girls in the 1960s. The most widely means of transportation was the bus and the villagers was grateful for the police station, which was walking distance from the house of mourning (Stoveman’s sister).

Interesting too were the spiritual values of the villagers. Since the community was so closely-knit, less focus was placed on partying. Instead, many people preferred to visit their respective places of worship, the church, temple or mosque.

The cemetery was a “stone’s throw away” from the house of mourning too, so we decided to walk. We sang, clapped and danced to give Stoveman a glorious send-off. Finally, it was time to depart the village of Canque Village for home. We received numerous directions, however, everything worked out in the end as everyone reached their respective homes safely.

I was thankful for this memorable occasion and look forward to visiting Biche again, next time with my cousin, Terry, and other friends and relatives interested in seeing this lovely part of Trinidad.

February 2015 – Issue 14 www.sweettntmagazine.com

Navigating the transit corridors of East Trinidad

The expedition to Biche begins with a strategic choice of routes, typically transitioning through the major eastern hub of Sangre Grande. For those accustomed to the coastal “beaches” of the island, the inland village of Biche represents a distinct topographical shift. The transit experience via public maxi-taxi involves a ninety-minute immersion into the changing landscape of Trinidad.

As the urban sprawl of Sangre Grande recedes, it is replaced by the verdant scenery of Plum Mitan and expansive, untouched forested areas. These regions maintain a pristine quality, characterized by vivid green vegetation that offers a stark, tranquil contrast to the island’s more developed corridors.

The social fabric of Canque Village

Upon arrival in Biche, specifically the area known as Canque Village, the visitor is met with a community defined by its close-knit social structure. Unlike the more commercialised districts of Trinidad where nightlife and secular entertainment often take centre stage, Biche maintains a traditional focus on spiritual and communal life.

The village is home to a diverse array of religious institutions, including churches, temples, and mosques, which serve as the primary anchors for social interaction. This high regard for spiritual values fosters a sense of mutual support and safety, where the local police station and the house of mourning are central landmarks within walking distance of one another.

Agricultural roots and historical infamy

The history of Biche is deeply rooted in its identity as an agricultural stronghold. The fertile land has long supported the livelihoods of its residents, creating a resilient and self-sufficient atmosphere. However, the village also carries the weight of a darker historical chapter involving the infamous Mano Benjamin.

During the 1960s, Benjamin became a figure of national notoriety for the enslavement and torture of two young women in the area. While this legacy remains a point of historical reference for the community, modern Biche has moved far beyond these events, focusing instead on its reputation for hospitality and the preservation of its natural, rural charm.

Cultural expressions of grief and celebration

Attending a funeral in Biche provides a profound look at the authentic cultural traditions of rural Trinidad. The “house of mourning” serves as a communal gathering point before the final procession to the cemetery, which is often located a short distance away.

Rather than a somber or detached event, the journey to the gravesite is an active, participatory experience. Villagers and visitors alike engage in singing, clapping, and dancing, transforming the act of burial into a “glorious send-off”. This vibrant expression of faith and community ensures that the departure of a loved one, such as the well-known Stoveman, is marked by a collective celebration of their life and impact on the village.

Accessibility and the hospitality of Biche

Despite its perceived seclusion, Biche is accessible and welcoming to those who make the effort to visit. The presence of reliable bus and maxi-taxi services ensures that even those without private transport can reach the village safely. The narrative of the journey highlights the role of local residents, such as Gloria, who act as informal guides and “human maps” for newcomers.

This openness to strangers and the willingness to share the rich history of the village make Biche an essential destination for anyone seeking to understand the true heart of Trinidad’s rural interior. The experience leaves a lasting impression, encouraging future visits to explore more of this lovely and often overlooked part of the nation.