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Why a beloved cultural practice now faces serious scrutiny
Braided hairstyles carry centuries of meaning in African and Caribbean communities. They represent skill, identity, beauty, bonding, heritage and resilience. Protective styles have long helped people minimise breakage, reduce heat exposure and manage time.
They also support a vibrant business ecosystem across the Caribbean, North America, Africa and Europe, from small salons to large importers. In recent years braid styles such as knotless plaits, faux locs and boho curls have reached global popularity through celebrities, influencers and everyday professionals who rely on braids for practicality and confidence.
Yet a new investigation has forced a difficult conversation about a product used far more often than many beauty items: synthetic braiding hair. In February 2025, Consumer Reports published the most comprehensive scientific examination to date of chemical exposure from braiding hair products.
Their findings were sobering. Every single sample tested positive for carcinogenic chemicals. Nine of the ten samples contained amounts of lead that scientists consider unsafe over time. These revelations have sent shockwaves through salons, homes and diaspora communities where braiding is a regular and trusted part of life.
Read the full article here
The investigation that changed the conversation
Consumer Reports purchased ten of the most popular synthetic braiding hair products in the United States. Brands included Sensationnel, Magic Fingers, Shake-N-Go, Sassy Collection and others that are widely available through beauty supply stores and online platforms. Two samples were taken from each product and sent to an independent laboratory. Scientists tested for volatile organic compounds, commonly known as VOCs, and heavy metals. Both categories include substances with strong evidence of carcinogenicity.
The results found carcinogens in 100 percent of the products analysed. Benzene, one of the most thoroughly studied cancer-causing chemicals in the world, appeared in three brands. The investigation also detected methylene chloride, chloroform, styrene, naphthalene and 1,2-dichloroethane across the range of samples. These substances are linked to cancers of the blood, lungs, liver and lymphatic system in various exposure conditions. They are also associated with reproductive harm, neurological symptoms and respiratory irritation.
Lead was detected in nine of the ten products. To evaluate the risks, Consumer Reports used California’s Maximum Allowable Dose Level, a benchmark widely regarded as one of the strictest health-protective standards available. All nine samples with lead exceeded that protective threshold. Some products contained levels hundreds of percent higher than what California considers acceptable. This is alarming because lead accumulates in the body and has no safe exposure level. It can impair the brain, nervous system, immune system, kidneys and cardiovascular function. Children, who often wear braids, are even more vulnerable as lead exposure can cause long-term developmental damage.
The products also released VOCs when heated. This is highly relevant because sealing the ends of braids with boiling water is the standard practice for stylists worldwide. Once heated, synthetic fibres emit gasses that can irritate the eyes, nose and throat. But more importantly, some VOCs are known carcinogens that may increase the risk of cancer when inhaled repeatedly in enclosed spaces.
Consumer Reports emphasised that the purpose of the investigation was not to produce a conclusive risk assessment, but to determine whether there was a “there” to investigate. The discovery of widespread carcinogens confirmed that further research is urgently needed.
A problem rooted in complex manufacturing systems
Synthetic braiding hair is typically made from modacrylic fibres, which combine acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride. Both chemicals are recognised by public health agencies as carcinogenic or suspected carcinogens. The fibres are later dyed, coated, sealed, fragranced and treated with various finishing agents before reaching consumers. Many of these processes can introduce additional hazardous substances.
Manufacturers frequently operate outside the United States, Caribbean or Africa. Many factories are located in regions where transparency rules differ, making it hard for stylists, importers and customers to know which ingredients were used. The products tested had little to no ingredient information on their packaging.
Experts interviewed by Consumer Reports pointed out that regulatory oversight is patchy. The United States Food and Drug Administration regulates cosmetics but has never issued specific regulations for synthetic hair. Hair extensions are considered external accessories rather than personal care products, so the rules around testing, safety audits and chemical disclosures remain inconsistent.
This regulatory gap has created what Consumer Reports called a “black hole” in product safety. Manufacturers are not legally required to disclose every ingredient. There are no federal limits for heavy metals in synthetic hair. There are no rules governing maximum VOC emissions. Yet millions of people wear these products for four to six weeks at a time, placing the fibres in constant contact with their skin, airways and hands.
The symptoms that raised early alarms
For years, wearers have reported rashes, scalp irritation and chemical odours after installing synthetic braids. Contact dermatitis is one of the most common complaints. Dermatologists note that symptoms include redness, itching, burning and painful inflammation. Some people experience breakouts on the neck where braids rub against the skin. Others experience headaches or respiratory irritation.
These reactions are often dismissed as sensitivity, tight braiding or poor installation technique. While these factors can contribute, the Consumer Reports data confirms that chemical exposure is also a potential cause.
Dermatologists interviewed said they often treat rashes with topical steroids but must advise patients that symptoms will not fully resolve until the exposure is removed. Some stylists encourage clients to pre-rinse hair in diluted apple cider vinegar to reduce irritation. Scientists caution that this method is unproven and may release chemicals during the soaking process.
Analytical chemists also highlight concerns about long-term exposure. Endocrine-disrupting chemicals are known to interfere with hormonal systems even in small quantities. Several compounds linked to synthetic hair manufacturing fall into this category. Researchers say more studies are needed to understand whether prolonged wearing of synthetic braids plays a role in patterns of cancer, fibroids, reproductive disorders and other chronic conditions disproportionately affecting Black women.
The responses from companies and the pressure for change
Consumer Reports contacted each manufacturer involved. Only two companies provided statements. Both disputed the testing methods and insisted their products were safe when used as intended. They did not confirm whether they conduct their own chemical testing before products reach the market. None provided ingredient lists.
Consumer Reports has since delivered a petition with more than twenty thousand signatures calling for the removal of benzene and other toxic chemicals from synthetic braiding hair. Advocates are also urging the FDA to expand its oversight. States such as New York are considering legislation like the Beauty Justice Act, which would ban several harmful ingredients and improve transparency for products disproportionately used by Black and brown communities.
Scientists involved in the testing argue that the presence of at least one lead-free sample and several lower-VOC options shows that safer manufacturing is possible. They maintain that the market can change quickly once regulations and consumer pressure demand higher standards.
The historical and social context shaping the issue
Braided hairstyles have served as an enduring cultural practice across West Africa and its diaspora. They carried messages about status, age, tribe and identity long before the transatlantic slave trade disrupted African civilisations. During enslavement, braiding practices were maintained as acts of survival, artistry and resistance. In the Caribbean and the Americas, braids developed new meanings within communities navigating harsh conditions.
In modern times braids have remained essential. They protect textured hair, offer convenience and support personal expression. Synthetic extensions expanded the possibilities of length, colour and style. They also created employment for thousands of stylists, many of whom built family businesses through skill alone.
This history explains the emotional weight of the current findings. The issue is not simply a consumer matter. It affects a cultural tradition, a livelihood network and a beauty practice that has provided confidence and community for generations. Any disruption must therefore be handled with accuracy, sensitivity and genuine concern for public health.
Understanding the pathways of exposure
Consumer Reports evaluated three possible exposure routes: inhalation, skin contact and ingestion. The assessment focused on ingestion because the lead toxicity model used in California assumes ingestion as the primary route for calculating safe levels. There are several ways synthetic hair particles or residues may be inadvertently consumed.
The fibres can shed or break. Particles can cling to hands during styling, adjusting or daily wear. People may then eat without washing their hands. Children sometimes put braids in their mouths. During installation, braiders may grip strands between their lips while working. These small moments become significant when repeated daily for several weeks.
For VOCs, inhalation poses the highest risk. Heating synthetic hair is an established part of the braiding process, and both clients and stylists breathe in the fumes. Regular exposure in small spaces such as salons increases the opportunity for VOCs to accumulate in the body.
Skin contact completes the exposure triangle. The scalp is highly vascular and absorbs chemicals more easily than many parts of the body. Neck and facial skin are also vulnerable.
What consumers can do while the industry catches up
Health experts advise that anyone experiencing itching, burning or unusual symptoms should remove the braids and report the issue to a healthcare provider. People can check for recalls on MedWatch, though none currently exist for synthetic braiding hair. Shoppers should choose products that voluntarily list ingredients or advertise nontoxic materials, although these claims are not yet regulated.
Shorter wearing periods may reduce overall exposure. Some dermatologists recommend taking breaks between installations to allow the skin to recover. Families may wish to avoid synthetic braids for very young children until stronger safety standards are introduced.
Innovators are already responding. A new wave of companies is producing plant-based, phthalate-free and PVC-free braiding hair. These products require more testing before firm conclusions can be drawn, but early signs suggest they may contain fewer contaminants than traditional modacrylic fibres.
Why this matters for public health and future generations
Synthetic braiding hair is worn by millions of people, often continuously. The exposure is prolonged and close to the body, involving inhalation, absorption and ingestion pathways. This sets it apart from many other beauty products that remain on the skin for minutes or hours. When such a widely used product category shows universal contamination with carcinogenic chemicals, the issue becomes a significant public health concern.
Scientists studying cancer disparities stress that environmental exposures accumulate alongside structural factors such as stress and unequal access to healthcare. Safer products alone cannot erase these systemic influences, but addressing chemical hazards is an essential step toward reducing the burden carried by communities that already experience disproportionate health challenges.
Regulation, accountability and transparency are vital. Consumers deserve to know what is in the products they use. Salons deserve guidance and safer options for their livelihoods. And parents deserve confidence that the hair they choose for their children will not harm them.
A call for a safer future in hair culture
The Consumer Reports investigation has illuminated a problem that has lingered unnoticed for too long. It has not asked people to abandon braids. It has asked manufacturers, regulators and policymakers to respect communities enough to ensure that products designed for them are safe.
Braids will always remain a powerful expression of identity. The next step is ensuring that the materials used to create them honour the health of the people who wear and love them.
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