Feni: From humble beginnings to a premium spirit – the journey of Goa’s iconic drink

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Goa, the smallest state in India, is famed for its golden beaches, vibrant culture, and a unique spirit that has been synonymous with its identity for centuries—Feni. This potent liquor, distilled from either cashew apples or the sap of coconut flowers, carries a rich history and a distinctive character that has captured the essence of Goa’s tradition and craftsmanship. What was once considered a drink of the masses has now emerged as a premium product, proudly representing Goa on the global stage.

The origins of Feni

Feni’s origins are deeply rooted in the agricultural practices of Goa. The spirit can be made from two primary sources: cashew apples or the sap of coconut flowers, known locally as toddy. While the coconut-based Feni has been around for over 400 years, the cashew version is a relatively newer addition, introduced by the Portuguese in the 16th century when they brought cashew trees from Brazil to India.

The process of making Feni is entirely artisanal, passed down through generations. It begins with the careful collection of cashew apples or coconut toddy. The juice from these is then fermented and distilled in traditional pot stills, often made of copper. The first distillation produces a milder liquor called “Urrak”, which is consumed locally. The second distillation, which increases the alcohol content, results in Feni.

The poor man’s drink

For much of its history, Feni was considered a poor man’s drink. It was a staple in the rural communities of Goa, consumed by farmers and laborers after a hard day’s work. Its strong, pungent flavour and high alcohol content made it an affordable way to unwind, and it was often viewed as a rustic, unrefined beverage. Feni was sold in small, unmarked bottles in local markets, and its reputation remained confined to the villages where it was produced.

In fact, the rustic nature of Feni was a double-edged sword. While it was widely consumed locally, it was also looked down upon by the urban elite and outsiders who saw it as a coarse, unsophisticated drink. This perception kept Feni on the fringes of the broader liquor market for many years.

Feni’s rise to prominence

The transformation of Feni from a humble drink to a premium spirit began in the late 20th century, driven by a growing appreciation for artisanal and local products worldwide. As global travellers began to explore Goa’s unique culture, they encountered Feni and were intrigued by its bold flavour and rich history. This newfound interest led to a rebranding of Feni, with efforts to improve its production standards and packaging to appeal to a more discerning audience.

One of the key moments in Feni’s rise was its recognition as a Geographical Indication (GI) in 2009. This status not only protected the name and traditional methods of Feni production but also elevated its status as a product uniquely tied to the land and culture of Goa. With this recognition, Feni began to be marketed as a high-quality, artisanal spirit, distinct from mass-produced liquors.

Producers started experimenting with aging Feni in wooden casks, refining its flavours, and creating premium versions that could be enjoyed neat or in cocktails. These efforts paid off as Feni began to be served in upscale bars and restaurants, both in India and abroad. The drink that was once poured into cheap plastic bottles was now being bottled in elegant glass, with labels highlighting its heritage and artisanal craftsmanship.

A global icon of Goan heritage

Today, Feni stands as a proud symbol of Goa’s cultural heritage. It is no longer seen as just a cheap, strong drink for locals but as a premium spirit that embodies the unique flavours of Goa. From boutique distilleries producing limited editions to innovative mixologists crafting Feni-based cocktails, this once-humble drink has found its place in the global spotlight.

In many ways, the journey of Feni mirrors the evolution of Goa itself—from a laid-back, rural region to a vibrant, cosmopolitan destination. Yet, despite its new status, Feni has not lost its roots. The traditional methods of production, the use of local ingredients, and the artisanal nature of the craft remain at the heart of Feni, ensuring that each bottle carries with it the soul of Goa.

Crafting Feni

The two distinct methods of producing Goa’s iconic spirit

Feni, the signature spirit of Goa, India, is renowned for its bold flavour, rich history, and unique production methods. What sets Feni apart from other spirits is the fact that it can be crafted in two entirely different ways—using cashew apples or the sap of coconut flowers.

Each method imparts its own distinct character to the final product, resulting in two variations of Feni that are equally celebrated but uniquely different. This article explores these two traditional methods of making Feni, highlighting the craftsmanship and heritage that go into every bottle.

Method 1: Cashew Apple Feni

Origins and ingredients

Cashew apple Feni, known simply as “Cashew Feni”, is made from the fruit of the cashew tree (Anacardium occidentale). While cashew nuts are widely known and consumed, the fleshy, pear-shaped cashew apple is the star of the show when it comes to making Feni. This version of Feni is relatively newer, with origins dating back to the 16th century when the Portuguese introduced cashew trees to Goa from Brazil.

Production process

The production of Cashew Feni is a meticulous, multi-step process that begins with the collection of ripe cashew apples. These apples are handpicked when they are fully mature and have a high juice content. The quality of the Feni depends heavily on the ripeness and sweetness of the fruit, making this initial step crucial.

1. Juicing: The cashew apples are then crushed to extract their juice. Traditionally, this was done by stomping on the fruit in a basin made of stone or wood, though some producers now use mechanical presses. The juice, called “neero”, is collected and fermented naturally using wild yeast present in the environment.

2. Fermentation: The cashew apple juice is left to ferment in large earthen or wooden containers for several days. During this period, the sugars in the juice are converted into alcohol, resulting in a low-alcohol brew known as “Urrak”. This initial fermentation is key to developing the flavour profile of the Feni.

3. Distillation: Urrak is then distilled in traditional pot stills, usually made of copper. The distillation process involves heating the Urrak to separate the alcohol from the water and other impurities. The first distillation produces a stronger liquor, which is often distilled again to increase the alcohol content and refine the flavours. The final product, after the second or third distillation, is Cashew Feni.

4. Aging (optional): While traditional Feni is consumed fresh, some modern producers age it in wooden barrels to mellow its flavours and add complexity. Aged Cashew Feni can have a smoother taste with subtle notes of vanilla, oak, or caramel.

Flavor profile

Cashew Feni is known for its bold, fruity, and somewhat pungent aroma, which can be an acquired taste. It has a strong, earthy flavour with hints of tropical fruit, making it a distinctive spirit. The high alcohol content and robust character of Cashew Feni make it a popular choice for those who appreciate intense, flavourful drinks.

Method 2: Coconut Feni

Origins and ingredients

Coconut Feni, also known as “Coconut Toddy Feni”, is the older of the two variants, with a history stretching back over 400 years. It is made from the sap of coconut palm flowers, a practice that is deeply rooted in the coastal traditions of Goa. Coconut trees are abundant in the region, and the skill of tapping coconut flowers for their sap has been passed down through generations.

Production process

The production of Coconut Feni is an artisanal craft that requires both skill and patience. The process begins with the careful extraction of sap from the coconut flowers, a task performed by skilled tappers known as “render”.

1. Tapping the toddy: The render climbs the coconut tree and makes a precise incision in the flower of the coconut palm to collect the sap, known as “toddy”. The sap flows into earthen pots tied to the tree, which are collected twice a day—once in the morning and once in the evening. The quality of the toddy depends on the weather, the health of the tree, and the skill of the tapper.

2. Fermentation: The fresh toddy is highly perishable and begins to ferment naturally as soon as it is collected. The fermentation process is quicker than with cashew apples, often taking just a few hours to a day. The resulting liquid is a low-alcohol beverage that is mildly sweet and sour.

3. Distillation: Similar to Cashew Feni, the fermented toddy is distilled in pot stills to concentrate the alcohol. The first distillation yields a mildly alcoholic spirit, which is then distilled again to produce the final Coconut Feni. The distillation process for Coconut Feni is typically simpler and quicker than for Cashew Feni.

4. Aging (optional): Like Cashew Feni, Coconut Feni can be consumed fresh or aged. Some producers choose to age the spirit in earthen pots or wooden casks to develop a more complex flavour profile, though this is less common.

Flavour profile

Coconut Feni has a more delicate and subtle flavour compared to its cashew counterpart. It carries a mild, sweet aroma with hints of coconut and palm, and a smooth, slightly sweet taste. The flavour is less intense, making it more approachable for those new to Feni. Coconut Feni is often enjoyed as a refreshing drink, either neat or mixed with water or soda.

Both Cashew Feni and Coconut Feni are unique expressions of Goan heritage, each reflecting the region’s natural resources and artisanal traditions. While the methods of production differ—one relying on the juicy fruit of the cashew apple and the other on the sap of coconut flowers—both versions of Feni share a common thread: they are crafted with care, respect for tradition, and a deep connection to the land.

Whether you prefer the robust, fruity punch of Cashew Feni or the delicate, sweet notes of Coconut Feni, each sip of this iconic spirit is a journey into the heart of Goa’s cultural and agricultural history.

Feni’s transformation from a poor man’s drink to a premium spirit is a testament to the power of tradition, craftsmanship, and cultural pride. As more people discover this unique Goan spirit, Feni continues to gain recognition and respect, proving that sometimes, the most authentic and flavourful experiences come from the humblest of beginnings. Whether sipped neat, mixed into a cocktail, or simply enjoyed in the company of friends, Feni remains a drink that tells the story of Goa—a story of resilience, identity, and the enduring spirit of its people.

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